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When lawn care really starts
In Winnipeg, the practical start date is weather‑based, not calendar‑based.
Start when:
Daytime temperatures stay above roughly 10°C for a week or so.
Most snow is gone and the soil surface is firm, not squishy or frozen.
Grass just starts to green up, even if growth is still slow.
Avoid:
Walking on frozen or waterlogged turf, which compacts soil and stresses roots.
For many Winnipeggers this works out to late April or early May, but some years it’s closer to mid‑May depending on snowpack and spring melt.
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Core sequence of services
Think of your lawn season as four phases, each with a priority set of tasks.
Spring (late April–May, weather permitting)
Goal: wake up the lawn gently and repair winter damage.
Light raking to remove leaves, twigs, and dead grass so the lawn can “breathe.”
First mow at a higher setting (around 3–3.5 in / 7.5–9 cm) once grass is long enough to cut.
Core aeration if soil is compacted, followed by overseeding; aeration holes are ideal for new seed.
Overseeding thin or bare spots, ideally after aeration; keep soil consistently moist until seed establishes.
Spring fertilizing once grass is actively growing, using a balanced slow‑release product and following label rates.
Summer (June–August)
Goal: maintain density, control weeds, and protect from heat/drought.
Regular mowing, usually weekly, adjusting height slightly lower in late spring and a bit higher in hot, dry stretches.
Deep, infrequent watering during prolonged dry spells: fewer, longer sessions rather than frequent light sprinklings.
Hand‑pulling or spot‑treating weeds to keep them from taking over.
Monitoring for pests (e.g., grub damage) and addressing issues early.
Fall (September–October)
Goal: help the lawn recover and store energy for winter.
Raising mowing height as growth slows, then stopping once grass largely stops growing.
Raking leaves and debris so they don’t mat and smother the grass.
Aeration (if not done in spring) to relieve compaction and improve root growth.
Overseeding to thicken turf and introduce hardy varieties.
Applying a fall fertilizer to support root development and winter hardiness.
Winter (November–March)
Goal: protect the lawn with minimal traffic.
Keep heavy debris and thick leaf layers off the grass where possible.
Avoid walking on frozen or saturated turf to prevent damage.
Maintain and store tools so they’re ready for spring (sharpen mower blades, service engines).^
How to know what to do when
Because Winnipeg weather swings, it’s better to use cues than fixed dates.
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Temperature cues:
Spring start: daytime highs consistently above about 10°C, soil no longer frozen.
Active growth: you notice you’d be cutting more than one‑third of the grass blade if you waited another week; that’s your cue for the first and subsequent mows.
Soil and lawn cues:
Compaction: water puddles or the ground feels hard and dense; consider aeration.
Thinning or bare patches: schedule overseeding and topdressing.
Heavy thatch (spongy feel, visible brown layer at the soil line): plan for raking or light dethatching in spring or early fall.
Leaf and debris cues:
When leaves form a visible layer where you can’t see much grass, it’s time to rake, regardless of the month.
An example: if it’s early May, days are 12–15°C, the yard has dried, and grass is just greening, you’d do a gentle cleanup, maybe aerate and overseed, then wait a bit before the first mow.
Suggested Winnipeg lawn calendar (weather permitting)
Use this as a flexible guide; slide tasks earlier or later based on actual conditions.
Month (approx.) | Lawn tasks (weather‑dependent) | Notes for Winnipeg conditions |
|---|---|---|
March | Mostly snow cover; avoid walking on lawn; clear heavy debris if accessible. | Focus on tool maintenance and planning. |
Late April | Once ground is firm: light raking, debris cleanup, first higher‑set mow, spot repairs; consider spring aeration and overseeding. | Some years this shifts into early May depending on melt. |
May | Regular mowing begins, spring fertilizing, overseeding thin areas, early weed control. | Aim to mow weekly but adjust for growth rate. |
June | Steady mowing, monitor moisture, begin deeper but less frequent watering in dry spells, ongoing weed control. | Raise mowing height slightly as heat builds to conserve moisture. |
July | Peak heat: maintain higher mowing height, deep watering during prolonged dry periods, watch for pests and disease. | Accept some dormancy in extreme heat; lawn usually greens up again with rain. |
August | Continue mowing and watering; plan fall renovations (aeration, overseeding, fall fertilizer). | Good time to book any professional services before they’re fully booked. |
September | Ideal for aeration and overseeding, fall fertilization, continued mowing as growth slows. | Cooler temps and regular moisture help new seed establish. |
October | Final leaf cleanups, last one or two mows at a moderate height, winterizing irrigation and outdoor water, pruning some shrubs. | Try not to leave a thick leaf mat on the lawn over winter. |
November | Wrap up outdoor cleanup, store hoses, avoid traffic on frozen turf. | Most lawn work is done; shift attention to equipment care. |
December–February | No active lawn work; monitor any problem branches, keep heavy objects off the grass. | Prepare plans for next season (seed choice, services, etc.). |
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